We like to say that skinwax is equivalent to “happiness in a pocket format”. No one likes accumulation of ice and snow underneath the skis, so it should be a matter, of course, to bring skinwax to a skiing trip. We recommend to use hard wax and be generous when waxing the skins. Is it also a really good idea to bring with you a small brick of softer wax to apply in the field. Check out the Swix products designed to specifically protect and improve the glide of all climbing skins.
By waxing the skis, one avoids icing, accumulation of snow and keeps the skins dry – meaning they will last much longer, be more of a pleasure and glide better. We primarily recommend wax, as the wax stays in the skin for longer than liquid alternatives.
Most serious sports shops selling skis stacks glide wax, and that can be used with great success. Everyone selling our short skins should also stock skinwax and liquid skin proofer. All of the mentioned options should do the job.
Climbing skins should be kept dry, sheltered from sunlight (dark) and in normal room temperature. The is no need to freeze down quality skins, as some rumors have it. The most important to notice is that climbing skins should be dried properly after use, and this should NOT be done on a bathroom floor or close to other heat sources.
A climbing skin dries the best hanging on a cord as you dry your clothes – in room temperature. After the skin is dry, you can fold the glue surface against each other and keep them in their designated storage bag. Some skins also come with a “skin saver” or a net to put on the glue. This works well, but most skins with hotmelt glue will handle being glued together. All our skins will tolerate this.
If you experience “sticky and cushy” glue, there is a big possibility that the skins have been dried with too much heat.
6 SIMPLE THING TO REMEMBER TO MAKE THE SKINS LAST FOR LONGER:
1. Remember to dry the skins if they are wet. Drying shold be done in roomtemperature, never on a bathroom floor or close to heat sources.
2. If the skins get exposed to rapid temperature changes and the skins are ripped apart when glued together, it can damage the skins. It is best to mount the skins on the skis inside before one goes outside, or that one store the skins on the inner pocket on the inside of the jacket until one mounts the skins. If skins are taken directly outside in cold weather from a warm cabin, for example, and they are ripped apart from each other, this may mean trouble.
3. Frequent use of skinwax will protect the skins against water absorption, icing and snow accumulation. Skinwax also prevents unessecary wear on the skins – meaning that you get faster skins, less trouble and skins that last longer.
4. When mounting the short skins in the skinlock, make sure that they are properly attached and that the skinprotector is completely even with the sole of the ski. When that is done, you can attach the skin with its glue to the base of the ski.
5. Avoid violent disassembly of the short skins. If you rip the short skins off too fast and hard, this can cause the skinprotector to break at the back. However, it takes a lot of power and carelessness to get this done. But, be somewhat careful when you rip off the skins.
6. Climbing skins are directional. That is, the hairs in the skin and the way the skins are constructed are intended to move forward, not backward. If one backs and walks backward a lot with skins on the skis, the glue can loosen or the skin twist. It also wears much more on the fibers and the skin in general if it is used in the opposite way than it is intended.